Discover the History of Stockings and Tights

Discover the history of stockings and pantyhose from 1900s silk to modern wool tights, and see how we’ve reimagined a 1950s stockings design for today.

Women’s legwear has undergone an extraordinary transformation over the past 120 years. From the very beginning, stockings and tights have been both a practical necessity and a fashion statement, reflecting broader social and cultural changes.

Stockings in the 1900s: Early 20th-Century Fashion and Style

In the early 1900s, stockings were primarily practical, yet still considered fashionable. Hidden beneath long skirts, they kept legs warm, neat, and respectable, with only the occasional glimpse of an ankle hinting at what lay beneath.

What Were Stockings Made From in the Early 1900s?

Stockings at the turn of the century were made mostly from natural fibres, most commonly:

• Silk: The most desirable option: soft and luxurious, but delicate and expensive.
  

• Wool:  Thicker and warmer, typically worn in colder months or by those who could not afford silk.
  

• Cotton. Durable and practical for everyday wear, though less refined.
  

• Rayon (artificial silk): Introduced in the 1910s as a cheaper substitute for real silk, although it lacked the same lustre and elasticity.
  
  

A pair of original Edwardian stockings in a beautiful grey color with my 1910s style oxford shoe Bertha. 

Most women wore cotton or wool stockings daily, while silk stockings were a luxury for those with the means to afford them. Toward the end of the decade, rayon provided a more affordable alternative, though it never quite replicated the sheen or softness of silk.

Stocking colours tended to be dark or neutral: black, brown, beige, or white were common, though red, blue and green were also available. Designs varied from plain solid colours to stripes, with some featuring delicate embroidery, lace, or small decorative “clocks” — vertical motifs along the ankle — for those who desired an elegant touch.

A pair of original Edwardian cotton stockings from my personal collection, with "clocks" on the ankle. 

Why Do Vintage Stockings Have Seams?

Early stockings were knitted flat and then seamed up the back, as circular knitting machines had not yet been developed. Because the materials were less elastic than modern hosiery, stockings were sewn to fit the shape of the leg. They were therefore thicker, denser, and less flexible than contemporary nylon versions.
 Stockings could not stay up unaided and were held in place by garters or suspenders, often attached to a corset.

A pair of original Edwardian stockings, with back seam and mended several times on the heel. From my personal collection.

1920s: The Flapper Era and the Rise of Fashionable Hosiery

As hemlines rose during the 1920s, stockings became visible for the first time and evolved into an important accessory. Neutral shades gave the illusion of bare legs, while bold hues such as blue, green and red added personality to an outfit.

Nude-coloured stockings were popular among the middle and working classes for their versatility, while brightly coloured pairs were often reserved for special occasions and worn by those of higher social standing.

Stocking from the 1920s in beautiful colors. From my personal collection.

As corsets fell out of fashion, a new solution was needed to hold stockings up — the girdle. Made from elasticated fabrics, it shaped the waist and featured attached suspenders for the stockings. Smaller suspender belts also began to appear, though they were not yet widespread.

A pair of original 1920s stockings in a neutral douche color, paired with our 1920s Yvonne pumps with french heel - a classic look of the 1920s style.

1930s–1940s: The Invention of Nylon and Wartime Shortages

When Were Nylon Stockings Invented?

By the late 1930s, the American company DuPont had developed nylon, hailed as a “miracle fibre”. Nylon stockings debuted at the 1939 New York World’s Fair — sleek and silky like silk, but more durable and affordable. However, this newfound accessibility was short-lived.

A pair of thicker, beige stockings in a nylon cotton blend with back seams from the early 1940s. From my personal collection.

Stockings During the Second World War

In the early 1940s when war broke out, nylon production was redirected to the military for parachutes, ropes, tents, and even aircraft components. Stockings vanished from shop shelves. Resourceful women improvised by drawing seams on the backs of their legs with eyebrow pencils or tinting their legs with brown dye to mimic the look of stockings. Others knitted woollen versions for warmth.
Suspender belts became the preferred method of holding them up, replacing the girdle.

A pair of thick stockings in a light brown melange color from the late 1930s with reinforced toe and heel. From my personal collection.

The Art of Mending

With rationing in full effect, damaged stockings were carefully mended rather than discarded. Small tears were stitched, while runs were halted with clear nail varnish. Special mending kits containing fine threads in various shades of beige and brown were even sold for this purpose.

Original 1940s stockings, mended several times, along with specific mending yarn for stockings. This was a part of my small exhibition on 1940s rationing and fashion in my vintage boutique. 

1950s: Glamour, Femininity, and Decorative Seams

Post-War Fashion and the Popularity of Stockings

The 1950s fashion marked a return to luxury and elegance. Stockings were once again a daily essential, now available in a range of deniers and shades. Most were fine and sheer, designed in subtle nude or brown tones to give a natural look. Woollen stockings were worn in winter, often paired with wool shorts under skirts for extra warmth.

As 1950s fashion embraced a return to more traditional silhouettes, the girdle regained popularity, serving as a modern day corset. Here, Christinna presents original 1950s underwear at my June fashion show, paired with my gold Susan evening shoes

Why Stockings Became a Fashion Statement in the 1950s

Patterns and coloured seams became fashionable, with decorative designs at the heel adding a playful touch. Economic prosperity allowed women to indulge in such luxuries, transforming stockings into a symbol of style and sophistication — a reputation they still hold today.

Camilla is wearing a classic New Look–inspired outfit that reflects the defining style of the 1950s. Notice the sheer neutral stockings, accented with a bold black seam that serves as an accessory in its own right. This look was featured in my fashion show this past June. On her feet is my 1950s inspired pumps Julia. 

1960s: The Birth of the Tights (Pantyhose)

When Were Pantyhose Invented?

Invented in the late 1950s and gaining popularity throughout the 1960s, tights (known as pantyhose in the US) combined stockings and suspenders in one garment. With the rise of the miniskirt, suspenders became impractical, and tights offered a seamless solution.

In the 1960s, as skirts grew shorter, pantyhose became the perfect complement to this new fashion trend. Here Stinna is showing a true vintage 1960s dress. On her feet is my Helen shoes, originally designed as a 1930s style shoe, but works well with 1960s fashion too. 

Why Pantyhose Replaced Stockings in the 1960s

This innovation symbolised modern femininity and freedom — aligning perfectly with the women’s liberation movement of the time. Initially available in nude and beige tones for a natural look, tights soon embraced bright colours, pastels, and patterns, reflecting the decade’s playful spirit.

Thanks to circular knitting technology, tights were now made without back seams, creating the smooth, fitted look we still recognise today.

Pantyhose emerged as a bold fashion statement in the 1960s. A spirit Stinna captures perfectly here in an original 1960s dress, styled with vivid red pantyhose and my Ruby shoes.

1980s–Today: Comfort, Innovation and Everyday Wear

From the 1970s onwards, technological advancements revolutionised legwear. The introduction of Spandex (Lycra) gave tights their stretch and recovery, making them more comfortable and form-fitting.

Today, tights come in endless variations — sheer, opaque, patterned, control-top, maternity, and eco-friendly versions. While many women prefer trousers for everyday wear, tights remain a staple for formal occasions, fashion styling, and warmth.

They embody a century of innovation and shifting ideals of femininity, style, and practicality.

Introducing Our Vintage-Inspired Wool Tights

Our new memery pantyhose offer an instantly classic vintage look, versatile enough to complement styles from every decade and even modern fashion. Here, they are paired with our 1920s-inspired Yvonne pumps.

Inspired by an original pair of 1950s stockings, our new Memery wool tights reinterpret classic mid-century elegance with modern comfort.

The memery pantyhose, Anita key features include:

• 80% wool content for warmth, breathability, and durability, higher than most wool-blend tights on the market.
  

• A beautifully structured knit in a soft cream-grey mélange.
  

• Authentic design based on original 1950s hosiery.

• Available in four sizes: Small, Medium, Large, and X-Large with generous stretch for a flexible, comfortable fit.
  

• Designed to complement vintage-inspired outfits or simply keep you cosy in winter dresses.
  

• A practical, all-in-one tights style - no suspenders required.
  
  

Our new pantyhose here combined with our 1940s inspired two-tone shoes, Grace. 

Styled with a timeless coat and our elegant Clara Oxfords, this look captures the perfect vintage-inspired charm for crisp fall days.

Made of 80% wool, the memery Anita tights are great for stylish, yet warm autumn and winter styles. Here paired with my Betty boots. 

Whether you’re heading to a winter soirée in a 1950s swing dress or braving the school run on a frosty morning, these tights will keep you warm, stylish, and connected to over a century of hosiery history.

- Mette

Interested in learning more about women’s fashion through the decades? Explore our blog on Edwardian style here: 1900s Fashion | How Did People Dress in the Edwardian Era? or read about the history of the classic Mary Jane shoe: Mary Jane Shoes: History, Key Features, and Why This Timeless Style Endures.

Sources:

• Tidens Mode by Anne-Grete Steckhahn
  
• Vintage Fashion: Collecting and Wearing Designer Classics by Emma Baxter-Wright, Karen Clarkson, Sarah Kennedy, and Kate Mulvey