The 1920s were a decade of extraordinary transformation, not only in culture and society but in fashion itself. Amidst flapper dresses, jazz music and the exuberance of the Roaring Twenties, a groundbreaking style emerged that blurred the boundaries between masculine and feminine: the Garçonne look.
The Garçonne style was a declaration of independence that continues to influence designers and style icons nearly a century later.
Western Fashion Before the 1920s: Victorian Roots and Gender Separation
Before the 1920s, Western fashion was still grounded in Victorian traditions, which imposed clear distinctions between men’s and women’s dress.
Men’s clothing symbolised authority, mobility and power, whereas women’s attire reflected delicacy, restraint and domestic virtue. Fashion reinforced strict gender roles, leaving little space for individuality, comfort or personal expression that went beyond the traditional gender roles.
After the First World War, however, this began to change dramatically. As millions of men went to war, women stepped into the traditionally male dominated areas of the workforce, ran households and experienced a new sense of independence with their own money. When the conflict ended, they were not willing to return quietly to traditional gender expectations, least of all in the way they dressed.
What Was the Style in the 1920s?
The fashion of the 1920s represented freedom, rebellion and modernity. Women cut their hair short, moved away from the corsets and embraced clothing that allowed movement and self-expression. Designers such as Coco Chanel popularised a boyish, minimalist silhouette that captured the spirit of the modern woman.
Key features of 1920s women’s fashion:
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Silhouette: Straight, androgynous shapes with dropped waistlines and tubular dresses
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Hair: Sleek bobs or Eton crops
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Accessories: Spectator shoes, Mary Janes, long pearl necklaces, tailored jackets and cloche hats
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Make-up: Bold lips, rouge and thin brows
Kristina wearing an authentic 1920s-inspired outfit from my personal vintage collection, featured in my May 2024 fashion show.
What Does Garçonne Mean?
The French term la garçonne is the feminine form of garçon, meaning “boy”. The word gained fame through Victor Margueritte’s 1922 novel La Garçonne, which told the story of a young woman who defied convention. Cutting her hair short, dressing in menswear-inspired garments and living on her own terms.
Soon, “Garçonne” became synonymous with the modern, independent and daring woman who combined classic masculine tailoring with traditional feminine elegance.
What Is Garçonne Style?
The Garçonne style was not simply about women wearing men’s clothing, it was about the artistic fusion of masculine and feminine aesthetics. It balanced strength with sensuality, creating a look that was both elegant and rebellious.
Defining elements of Garçonne fashion:
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Menswear-inspired pieces: Tailored jackets, trousers, waistcoats, neckties and crisp shirts
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Androgynous elegance: Combining classic tailoring with feminine-coded details such as pearls, bold lipstick and heels
American “It girl” Louise Brooks epitomised the look with her sleek bob and wide-legged trousers, circa 1927.
Icons of the Garçonne Era
The 1920s and 1930s were shaped by women who personified the Garçonne ideal:
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Louise Brooks The silent film star with her sharp bob and enigmatic presence
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Josephine Baker African-American performer whose sensuality and independence lit up the Paris stage
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Coco Chanel French designer who revolutionised women’s fashion with simplicity and confidence
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Marlene Dietrich Hollywood icon who made androgyny glamorous, famously appearing in Morocco (1930) wearing a tuxedo and kissing a woman on screen
Dancer Josephine Baker in a white tie suit and top hat, circa 1920s.
When Wearing Pants Was Revolutionary (and Sometimes Illegal)
The garçonne style symbolised freedom and modernity, but it was more than a cultural statement. In some places, it was quite literally illegal for women to wear trousers. In Paris, an 1800 police decree required women to obtain permission to “dress like a man” a law that technically remained in force until 2013, although it had long been ignored. Gradual relaxations came with amendments in 1892 and 1909, allowing women to wear trousers if they were “holding a bicycle handlebar” or “the reins of a horse”. Across the United States, similar “cross-dressing” laws meant that women could be fined or arrested simply for wearing trousers. Even in Britain, where no explicit ban existed, trousers were regarded as scandalous well into the early 20th century. The garçonne’s tailored suits and androgynous silhouettes amounted to a bold rebellion against both social and legal boundaries.
Marlene Dietrich wearing a white tie suit in the 1930 film “Morocco.”
The Legacy of Garçonne Style
By the 1930s, the boyish silhouette had softened, yet the Garçonne spirit endured. Designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier and Hedi Slimane reimagined the look through sleek tailoring, tuxedos and gender-fluid fashion.
In film, Diane Keaton’s Annie Hall (1977) reintroduced androgynous fashion with oversized blazers and wide-leg trousers, while Julie Andrews in Victor/Victoria (1982) embodied the playful sophistication of the Garçonne ideal.
Today, the Garçonne look continues to influence contemporary fashion, symbolising gender fluidity, freedom and self-expression.
How to Create a Garçonne Look Yourself
The Garçonne look is about blending masculine tailoring with feminine details to create a confident, refined and modern style. Here’s how to achieve it:
1. The Silhouette
Choose tailored blazers, waistcoats, trousers or button-up shirts. Slightly oversized jackets and high-waisted, wide-leg trousers perfectly capture the 1920s-inspired look.
2. The Hair
Bob or short crop: Sleek, structured and timeless. Opt for a blunt bob, pixie cut or Eton crop for a contemporary interpretation.
Styling: Keep it smooth and polished, or add soft waves for a touch of vintage charm. Long hair can be arranged in a bun or curled in old Hollywood waves.
3. Add Details
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Jewellery: Long pearl strands or brooches for a subtle feminine edge
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Accessories: Neckties, fedoras or paperboy caps for a true 1920s aesthetic
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Make-up: Classic red lips and defined brows complete the Garçonne-inspired look
Here we have created a Garçonne in spired look with our 1920s spectators, called Frances
4. Choose the Right Shoes
Mary Janes or T-straps: Iconic 1920s choices that balance vintage charm with elegance
The Helen T-strap is an elegant late 1920s to early 1930s inspired pump.
Oxfords: Flat or heeled, they bring a masculine touch to any outfit
Our Juliettes are a classic pair of 1930s inspired oxfords with a block heel.
Spectators: Two-tone shoes, a 1920s favourite worn by both men and women, ideal for finishing off the look
Frances is a timeless 1920s style spectator in brown and white, perfect to complete the Garçonne look.
5. Own the Attitude
The Garçonne look is more than fashion, it’s an attitude. Walk with confidence, express yourself freely and embrace individuality, just as the Garçonnes of the 1920s did.
Why the Garçonne Look Still Matters Today
The Garçonne style was not simply a fashion movement; it was a cultural shift. It marked the moment when women began dressing for themselves, rather than to please others.
A century later, its influence remains strong. From Chanel’s tweed suits to Saint Laurent’s tuxedos, the Garçonne legacy continues to shape how we understand gender, fashion and identity in the modern world.
Want to learn more about women’s fashion in the 1920s?
Read our article: 1920s Fashion | Discover the Styles of the Roaring Twenties
Or explore the history of an early 20th-century fashion icon: The History of Two-Tone Spectators: A Vintage Icon
Sources:
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Shoes - An Illustrated Story by Rebecca Shawcross
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Tidens Mode by Anne-Grete Steckhahn
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Vintage Fashion - Collecting and Wearing Designer Classics by Emma Baxter-Wright, Karen Clarkson, Sarah Kennedy, and Kate Mulvey
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Vintage Shoes by Caroline Cox
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The chronology of fashion : from Empire Dress to Ethical Design by N. J. Stevenson